Cologne Cathedral, South Side
We next turned our attention to the Cologne structure which a visitor is least able to
ignore, the Cologne Cathedral. Refraining from ignoring the Cathedral is a popular
activity in Germany – the Cathedral is Germany’s most-visited landmark by a comfortable
margin, attracting more than double the visitors of the second-most-visited landmark,
the Reichstag building in Berlin. And one could hardly ignore the building, even if
one wanted to – it’s right next to the train station, and it’s really big.
Standing near the Cathedral (Hohe Domkirche St. Petrus, or High Cathedral of St.
Peter), one gets the impression of a structure that’s extremely vertical. It is in
fact taller than it is long, and at 474 feet, it’s not exactly short. Its height, 516
feet, made it the tallest structure in the world when its towers were completed in 1880
(beating out the cathedral in Rouen, 495 feet). It didn’t enjoy this distinction for
long, being surpassed in 1884 by the Washington Monument with its 555 feet, and in 1889
by the Eiffel Tower, which approached 1000 feet. But the Cologne Cathedral remained
the world’s tallest "building" (as opposed to "structure") until 1890, when the spire
of the Minster in Ulm was completed (530 feet). In ten years the Cathedral had gone
from tallest structure in the world to second-tallest church in Germany. But it’s
still really tall, and its height makes for a lot of stairs for anyone rash enough to
attempt climbing it (see below).
Cathedral Spires
Tree and Cathedral
Cathedral from Southwest
The Cathedral was for a long time a work in progress. Its construction began in
1248, after an earlier Cologne archbishop had received some important relics,
those of the Three Kings, from Milan (by way of the Holy Roman Emperor). It was
decided that such important relics deserved a proper building to live in, and
planning for the new cathedral was begun. After the start of construction, it
seems the work proceeded at a leisurely pace, and even this amount of progress
stopped in 1473, with the towers completed up to the belfry level and a giant
crane sticking out of the top of the south tower. A little bit of work on the
nave continued, but in the 16th Century all work stopped.
Until the 19th Century, that is. This was the Romantic Era, and people became
interested in seeing the project completed. The towers were exactly like they’d
been in 1473, including being surmounted by the crane, but interest was high,
the plans for the west end of the church were rediscovered, and enough money was
raised through a civic effort (and the Prussian government, trying to ingratiate
themselves with their newly-acquired Catholic countrymen, kicked in some cash
too) to restart construction. As mentioned above, the towers were completed in
1880. This was a national event, with a celebration attended by Kaiser Wilhelm I.
During World War II, the Cathedral received a few bombs, but ended up largely
undamaged, at least compared to the rest of the city, which was leveled. It is
thought that Allied bomber pilots were interested in preserving it as a
prominent navigation point on the way into Germany.
Our assault on the Cathedral began with us gawking at its western façade.
Connie and Nella and Cathedral
Cathedral
Nella and Connie and Cathedral
There are three doorways on this side of the church. One of the portals (the
one on the right) dates back to the 14th Century, but the other two are 19th
Century.
Connie and Main Portal
Above the Main Portal
Statues, Main Portal
We entered through the door on the right and were confronted with the thirteenth
station of the cross and a lot of candles. Connie contributed some change and
added a candle.
13th Station of the Cross (Wilhelm Mengelberg, 19th C.)
Connie and Candles
As is customary, the Cathedral has a central nave, and there are aisles on
either side.
Central Nave
Central Nave
Apse Windows
Nella and Northern Aisle
There are also many stained glass windows. Most are 19th Century or newer,
but there are some that date back farther.
Life of Christ Window (2005)
Magi Window (1507-08)
Adoration Window (1846)
Lamentation Window (1847)
Pentecost Window (1848)
St. Peter and Jesse Window (1509)
Children of Cologne Window (1960-65)
The church has two organs, both from the second half of the 20th Century.
Nave Organ (1998)
North Transept Organ (1948-56)
We walked around the church, looking at the architecture and artworks. One work,
the Gero Crucifix (named for an archbishop), is the oldest large such sculpture
north of the Alps.
Gero Crucifix (ca. 970)
Figure of St. Ursula
Altar of the Poor Clares (back side)
St. Engelbert, Heribert Neuss (1665)
Large Candlestick
Floor Mosaic with Old Cathedral
Stained Glass and Vaulting
There were a number of altars in the church. One, the Magi Altar, holds a depiction
of the Virgin and Child covered in a large white garment. The garment is covered
in jewelry.
Magi Altar with Jewellery Madonna
Top of Altar
Jewellery Madonna
A large, elaborate reliquary known as the Shrine of the Three Kings was created
around the beginning of the 13th Century to hold the relics that later inspired
the construction of the Cathedral.
Shrine of the Three Kings (ca. 1190-1220)
Shrine of the Three Kings, David Side
Shrine of the Three Kings, Solomon Side
We continued our exploration. Above the entrance to the Treasury, some gilded rods
were hanging from a pole. We later found out that each rod represents a year in
office for the current archbishop.
Rods Above Treasury Entrance
Tomb of Archbishop Philipp of Heinsberg (ca. 1300)
Candles and Candlesticks
Magi Altar (Wilhelm Mengelberg, 1892)
Altar of the City Patrons (ca. 1442)
Columns, Statues and Organ
St. Hubertus
St. Christopher (Tilman van der Burch, ca. 1470)
Floor Mosaic
Common to Catholic churches, we found elaborately carved stations of the
cross distributed throughout the Cathedral. They were carved in the 19th
Century. We’d seen the thirteenth station as we entered, but there were
many others.
Way of the Cross, Fourth Station
Way of the Cross, Fifth Station
Mass in Progress
Following our exploration of the church, Nella had the good sense to return to
the hotel to get some rest. But Connie and I were taken with the idea of
exploring one of the towers. We followed the signs to the way up and started
our ascent of a whole lot of stairs. At first the stairs were of stone and dark,
but eventually they emerged into a sunlit area at the base of the south tower. We
paused to catch our breath and contemplate the continuation of the stairway, a
modern metallic staircase that rose up the axis of the hollow tower.
Bob Pausing During Ascent
Stairway to Top
Preparing for Ascent
We continued up this staircase, pausing to look through the many “windows” in the tower.
Window in Tower
Inside of Tower
Eventually we reached the observation level, where there were many fellow tourists,
a lot of graffiti, and a very nice view of Cologne. To the east we could see the
Rhine and the busiest railroad bridge in Germany, the Hohenzollern Bridge. The
bridge was a favorite target of the Allied bombers during World War II because of
its strategic importance, but they were unable to destroy it. However, the German
army blew it up on their way out of town during the Allied advance in 1945 so the
Allies couldn’t use it. Regardless, the Allies were able to make do, and after the
war the bridge was rebuilt.
Walkway and View from Top
Rhine River and Hohenzollern Bridge
To the south we could see the buildings of the “old town”, mostly rebuilt since the war.
Rhine, Gross St. Martin Church and Bridges
Gross St. Martin Church
Tower of Town Hall
Connie
Bob
More modern structures were visible to the west, including the 873-foot
Colonius Tower, completed in 1981 and used for telecommunications.
View to the Northwest
Colonius Telecommunications Tower
Looking upward, we could see the top of the tower, which was reachable
by a ladder (though not by us). The view to the north was of the other tower.
Connie, Walkway and Top of Tower
Connie and Graffiti
View of North Tower
The way down led past the bells in the belfry, including "Fat Peter", a
53,000-pound bell which was cast in 1923 and which is the largest
freely-swinging ringable bell in the world.
Ceiling of Belfry
"Fat Peter"
Bells and Bell Hardware
Continuing downward, we followed a long, tightly-wound spiral staircase which
had me walking into a wall when I couldn’t stop turning left at its end. We
joined Nella at the hotel and rested for awhile. Eventually we went out and
found some dinner, again passing by the Cathedral.
Cathedral After Dark
We returned to the hotel and went to sleep, anticipating the next day’s
activities, which were to include a cruise along the Rhine.