When the Moors were evicted from Seville in 1248, they left behind a gigantic mosque, along with a minaret from which the faithful were called to prayer. The mosque was relatively new, having been completed in 1198, and Seville’s conqueror, Ferdinand III, had it converted to Christian uses, having it consecrated as a cathedral. This worked out fine until 1356, when the cathedral was damaged by an earthquake. In 1395 another earthquake hit, and the cathedral’s canons started thinking in terms of replacing the building. In 1401 it was decided to tear down the former mosque and build a new cathedral of a scale which would convince posterity that the canons had taken leave of their senses. Construction proceeded over the next century, and the new cathedral was consecrated in 1507. Between 1558 and 1568 a top was added to the former minaret, called the Giralda, transforming it into a bell tower and bringing its height to 344 feet.

The Seville Cathedral (formally called the Cathedral of St. Mary of the See) is billed as the largest cathedral in Christendom. It’s not the largest in floor area, trailing St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London in this statistic. But it could hold more ping pong balls than either of them due to its high ceiling (134 feet in the central nave, 96 feet in the aisles), a fact verified by the Guinness Book of World Records on a posted certificate.

Old Town Area Med   Lrg

Cathedral Neighborhood Med   Lrg

To get to the Cathedral we headed for the Giralda, the part of the Cathedral most easily seen from a distance (though with all the narrow streets, it’s hard to see anything from a distance). This approach deposited us in the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes, on the east side of the church and at the foot of the bell tower.

Nella, Fountain and Giralda Med   Lrg   Xlg	Nella, Fountain and Giralda MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD
Bob and Cathedral MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD	Apse Exterior, Capilla Real Med   Lrg   Xlg

Though there was a door on this side of the church, like all of the other elaborate Cathedral doors it was not accessible.

Puerta del Baptismo (Door of the Baptism) Med   Lrg   Xlg

Portada de la Asunción (Door of the Assumption) Med   Lrg   Xlg

We found the entrance on the south side of the church, off the Plaza del Triunfo (named to celebrate the triumph of the city over an earthquake in 1755). On this side of the Cathedral is found a door called The Prince’s Doorway, as well as a copy of the weathervane on top of the Giralda (the figure represents Faith, and this copy is most likely the original, kept in a sheltered area for its protection). But the entrance is through a much less grandiose door on the left.

Portada del Príncipe (Door of the Prince) Med   Lrg   Xlg	Above Portada del Príncipe Med   Lrg   Xlg
Faith Figure Med   Lrg   Xlg	Portada del Príncipe and Faith Figure MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD

We entered the door, paid our seven-Euro entrance fee and followed the passageway into the church.

The inside of the Cathedral was dimly lit and cavernous. We found ourselves near the back right corner of the church and immediately began to explore. There was a central nave with two parallel aisles on each side, and a very high ceiling, as advertised.

Interior Med   Lrg   Xlg	Stained Glass Window Med   Lrg   Xlg
Altar of the Trascoro and Vaulting MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD	Altar of the Trascoro (1619-35) Med   Lrg   Xlg
Carvings Outside Choir Med   Lrg   Xlg	Organ Med   Lrg   Xlg

Altar de Plata and Wall Decorations MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD	Altar de Plata Med   Lrg   Xlg
Virgen de la Granada and Altar de Plata MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD	Vaulting and Stained Glass Med   Lrg   Xlg
Choir Exterior MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD	Organ in Choir Med   Lrg   Xlg

In our explorations on the right side of the church we discovered the tomb of Christopher Columbus. People have been skeptical about whether the remains in the tomb are actually those of Columbus, and the adventures of Columbus’s remains over the centuries certainly make such doubts understandable. Columbus died in Spain (apparently of a heart attack) in 1506, and he was initially buried in the town of Valladolid. In 1542 he was dug up and shipped to Santo Domingo in the present-day Dominican Republic, where he rested in peace until 1795. At this point France was taking over the island of Hispaniola, so Columbus was again relocated, this time to Havana, Cuba. Cuba became independent in 1898 as a result of the Spanish-American War, and this triggered another move, this time back to Spain and the Seville Cathedral. But in 1877 a lead box was discovered back in Santo Domingo with Columbus’s name on it, containing some bone fragments. This led to a controversy that wasn’t settled until 2003, when DNA samples were taken from the remains in Seville and compared to those known to belong to his sons. The DNA wasn’t in great shape, but the similarity was apparently enough to pronounce Columbus’s remains to be some portion of Christopher Columbus. The question of the lead box in Santo Domingo remains a mystery at this point.

Tomb of Christopher Columbus Med   Lrg   Xlg

Bob and Columbus Tomb Med   Lrg

As one would expect for such a large church, there are chapels aplenty, 80 to be exact. Here are highlights from a few:

Chapel of San Laureano Med   Lrg   Xlg	Chapel of San Laureano Med   Lrg   Xlg
Chapel of San Isidoro Med   Lrg   Xlg	Figures, Chapel of San Isidoro Med   Lrg   Xlg
Chapel of San Hermenegildo Med   Lrg   Xlg	Chapel of San Hermenegildo MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD
Tomb of Juan de Cervantes Med   Lrg   Xlg	Chapel of the Virgen de la Antigua Med   Lrg   Xlg

But the most impressive chapel is undoubtedly the Capilla Mayor in the middle of the church, which contains the Retablo Mayor, the largest altarpiece in the world (66 ft. X 59 ft.), designed by Flemish artist Pierre Dancart beginning in 1482 and finally completed in 1564.

Capilla Mayor Med   Lrg   Xlg

Retablo Mayor Med   Lrg   Xlg

Detail, Retablo Mayor Med   Lrg   Xlg

Detail, Retablo Mayor Med   Lrg   Xlg

There is also an extensive Treasury (on the right side of the church, forward of the Columbus tomb) filled with valuable objects and works of art.

Monstrance, Juan de Arfe (1580-87) Med   Lrg   Xlg	St. Rosalía, Antonino Lorenzo Castelli (1681) Med   Lrg   Xlg
Main Sacristy MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD	Statue of the Virgin, Alonso Martínez Med   Lrg
The Descent, Pedro de Campaña (1548) Med   Lrg   Xlg	Statue of St. Ferdinand, Roldán Med   Lrg   Xlg
Alfonsine Tables (13th C.) Med   Lrg   Xlg	Bust of a Bishop Med   Lrg   Xlg
Altarpiece, Campaña and Afián (16th C.) Med   Lrg   Xlg	Monstrance Med   Lrg   Xlg
Cross (1530) Med   Lrg   Xlg	Crown of the Virgen de los Reyes Med   Lrg
Chapterhouse Med   Lrg	Immaculada, Bartolomé Esteban Murillo (1668) Med   Lrg

Outside the south Cathedral door is a large courtyard filled with orange trees, the Patio de los Naranjos. This area dates back to the time of the mosque that preceded the Cathedral. The fountain was used by the Muslim worshippers to wash their hands and feet before their prayers. The oranges, like those on trees growing throughout the city, are inedibly bitter.

Cathedral Spires Med   Lrg   Xlg

Puerta de la Concepción Med   Lrg   Xlg

Reachable from inside the Cathedral is the Giralda, which can be climbed up to where the bells are. This is done using a spiral ramp, which was used instead of stairs to enable men to climb the tower while sitting on their horses. The climb rewards the climber with spectacular views of the Cathedral and of Seville.

Spire During Ascent Med   Lrg	Spires Med   Lrg   Xlg
Patio de los Naranjos and North Wall Med   Lrg	Spires Med   Lrg
Dome and Spires Med   Lrg   Xlg	Top of Lantern Med   Lrg
Nella and Bells MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD	Bell Med   Lrg   Xlg
Bell Mechanism Med   Lrg	Guadalquivir River, Hotel Alfonso XIII Med   Lrg   Xlg
Cathedral and Archivo de Indias Med   Lrg   Xlg	Guadalquivir, Alcazar, Archivo de Indias MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD
The Alcazar Med   Lrg   Xlg	Seville and Cathedral Roof MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD

After descending from the Giralda we exited the Cathedral and window-shopped at the stores across from the west side of the church. We also found that a modern-looking tram travels along this side of the church.

Cathedral and Tram MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD

Nella Window Shopping MP4-Sml   MP4-Med   WMV-HD

We walked southward along Avenida de la Constitucion in search of food. We found a restaurant that looked good across from the luxurious Hotel Alfonso XIII. And just in time, as I was starting to wilt from the heat.


After cooling off and refueling we set off for our next destination, the Royal Alcazar of Seville.