When the Moors were evicted from Seville in 1248, they left behind a gigantic
mosque, along with a minaret from which the faithful were called to prayer. The
mosque was relatively new, having been completed in 1198, and Seville's conqueror,
Ferdinand III, had it converted to Christian uses, having it consecrated as a
cathedral. This worked out fine until 1356, when the cathedral was damaged by an
earthquake. In 1395 another earthquake hit, and the cathedral's canons started
thinking in terms of replacing the building. In 1401 it was decided to tear down
the former mosque and build a new cathedral of a scale which would convince
posterity that the canons had taken leave of their senses. Construction proceeded
over the next century, and the new cathedral was consecrated in 1507. Between 1558
and 1568 a top was added to the former minaret, called the Giralda,
transforming it into a bell tower and bringing its height to 344 feet.
The Giralda
The Seville Cathedral (formally
called the Cathedral of St. Mary of the See) is billed as the largest cathedral
in Christendom. It's not the largest in floor area, trailing St. Peter's
Basilica in Rome and St. Paul's Cathedral in London in this statistic. But it
could hold more ping pong balls than either of them due to its high ceiling
(134 feet in the central nave, 96 feet in the aisles), a fact verified by the
Guinness Book of World Records on a posted certificate.
Old Town Area
Cathedral Neighborhood
To get to the Cathedral we headed for the Giralda, the part of the Cathedral most
easily seen from a distance (though with all the narrow streets, it's hard to see
anything from a distance). This approach deposited us in the Plaza Virgen de los
Reyes, on the east side of the church and at the foot of the bell tower.
Nella, Fountain and Giralda
Nella, Fountain and Giralda
Bob and Cathedral
Apse Exterior, Capilla Real
Though there was a door on this side of the church, like all of the other
elaborate Cathedral doors it was not accessible.
Puerta del Baptismo (Door of the Baptism)
Portada de la Asunción (Door of the Assumption)
Puerta del Perdon (Door of the Forgiveness)
We found the entrance on the south side of the church, off the Plaza del
Triunfo (named to celebrate the triumph of the city over an earthquake in
1755). On this side of the Cathedral is found a door called The Prince's
Doorway, as well as a copy of the weathervane on top of the Giralda (the
figure represents Faith, and this copy is most likely the original, kept in a
sheltered area for its protection). But the entrance is through a much less
grandiose door on the left.
Portada del Príncipe (Door of the Prince)
Above Portada del Príncipe
Faith Figure
Portada del Príncipe and Faith Figure
We entered the door, paid our seven-Euro entrance fee and followed the passageway
into the church.
The inside of the Cathedral was dimly lit and cavernous. We found ourselves near
the back right corner of the church and immediately began to explore. There was
a central nave with two parallel aisles on each side, and a very high ceiling, as
advertised.
Interior
Stained Glass Window
Altar of the Trascoro and Vaulting
Altar of the Trascoro (1619-35)
Carvings Outside Choir
Organ
Transept Ceiling and Altar de Plata
Altar de Plata and Wall Decorations
Altar de Plata
Virgen de la Granada and Altar de Plata
Vaulting and Stained Glass
Choir Exterior
Organ in Choir
In our explorations on the right side of the church we discovered the tomb of
Christopher Columbus. People have been skeptical about whether the remains in
the tomb are actually those of Columbus, and the adventures of Columbus's
remains over the centuries certainly make such doubts understandable. Columbus
died in Spain (apparently of a heart attack) in 1506, and he was initially
buried in the town of Valladolid. In 1542 he was dug up and shipped to Santo
Domingo in the present-day Dominican Republic, where he rested in peace until
1795. At this point France was taking over the island of Hispaniola, so
Columbus was again relocated, this time to Havana, Cuba. Cuba became
independent in 1898 as a result of the Spanish-American War, and this
triggered another move, this time back to Spain and the Seville Cathedral. But
in 1877 a lead box was discovered back in Santo Domingo with Columbus's name
on it, containing some bone fragments. This led to a controversy that wasn't
settled until 2003, when DNA samples were taken from the remains in Seville
and compared to those known to belong to his sons. The DNA wasn't in great
shape, but the similarity was apparently enough to pronounce Columbus's
remains to be some portion of Christopher Columbus. The question of the lead
box in Santo Domingo remains a mystery at this point.
Tomb of Christopher Columbus
Bob and Columbus Tomb
Mural of St. Christopher, Pérez de Alesio (1584)
As one would expect for such a large church, there are chapels aplenty,
80 to be exact. Here are highlights from a few:
Chapel of San Laureano
Chapel of San Laureano
Chapel of San Isidoro
Figures, Chapel of San Isidoro
Chapel of San Hermenegildo
Chapel of San Hermenegildo
Tomb of Juan de Cervantes
Chapel of the Virgen de la Antigua
But the most impressive chapel is undoubtedly the Capilla Mayor in the
middle of the church, which contains the Retablo Mayor, the largest
altarpiece in the world (66 ft. X 59 ft.), designed by Flemish artist Pierre
Dancart beginning in 1482 and finally completed in 1564.
Capilla Mayor
Retablo Mayor
Retablo Mayor
Detail, Retablo Mayor
Detail, Retablo Mayor
There is also an extensive Treasury (on the right side of the church, forward
of the Columbus tomb) filled with valuable objects and works of art.
Monstrance, Juan de Arfe (1580-87)
St. Rosalía, Antonino Lorenzo Castelli (1681)
Main Sacristy
Statue of the Virgin, Alonso Martínez
The Descent, Pedro de Campaña (1548)
Statue of St. Ferdinand, Roldán
Alfonsine Tables (13th C.)
Bust of a Bishop
Altarpiece, Campaña and Afián (16th C.)
Monstrance
Cross (1530)
Crown of the Virgen de los Reyes
Chapterhouse
Immaculada, Bartolomé Esteban Murillo (1668)
Chapterhouse
Outside the south Cathedral door is a large courtyard filled with orange trees,
the Patio de los Naranjos. This area dates back to the time of the mosque
that preceded the Cathedral. The fountain was used by the Muslim worshippers to
wash their hands and feet before their prayers. The oranges, like those on trees
growing throughout the city, are inedibly bitter.
Cathedral Spires
Puerta de la Concepción
Nella, Patio de los Naranjos
Reachable from inside the Cathedral is the Giralda, which can be climbed up
to where the bells are. This is done using a spiral ramp, which was used
instead of stairs to enable men to climb the tower while sitting on their
horses. The climb rewards the climber with spectacular views of the
Cathedral and of Seville.
Spire During Ascent
Spires
Patio de los Naranjos and North Wall
Spires
Dome and Spires
Top of Lantern
Nella and Bells
Bell
Bell Mechanism
Guadalquivir River, Hotel Alfonso XIII
Cathedral and Archivo de Indias
Guadalquivir, Alcazar, Archivo de Indias
The Alcazar
Seville and Cathedral Roof
Bullring and Triana Bridge
After descending from the Giralda we exited the Cathedral and window-shopped at
the stores across from the west side of the church. We also found that a
modern-looking tram travels along this side of the church.
Cathedral from Ground
Cathedral and Tram
Nella Window Shopping
We walked southward along Avenida de la Constitucion in search of food.
We found a restaurant that looked good across from the luxurious Hotel Alfonso
XIII. And just in time, as I was starting to wilt from the heat.
Hotel Alfonso XIII
After cooling off and refueling we set off for our next destination, the
Royal Alcazar of Seville.