From looking at a map in our hotel room, the Musée d'Orsay seemed like a rather long
walk – certainly longer than we felt like walking in our present condition. Instead
we walked to the St-Michel Metro station, the one which seemed partially closed on
our arrival the day before. As it turned out, the Metro part of the station was fully
closed, leaving the prospect of an even longer walk than we'd have had from the
hotel. But fortunately the people running the Metro had supplied an alternative, a
free bus which travelled the portion of the Metro route that was closed. They'd even
supplied some multi-lingual young people wearing Metro t-shirts to answer questions.
After a short wait, we boarded the next bus and rode along the left bank of the Seine
to a stop just past the museum, where we exited.
Musée d'Orsay
Bob and Museum Sign
From the outside the Musée d'Orsay doesn't look as much like a museum as it looks like
a train station. Oddly enough, this is exactly what it used to be. It was built from
1898-1900 on the site of a government building (the Palais d'Orsay) which had been
burned down during the Paris Commune of 1871. The station (the Gare d'Orsay) was
completed just in time for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, and served for the next
few decades as the arrival and departure point for all trains between Paris and the
southwest of France. But by 1939, the longer-distance trains had become too long to
fit the station's platforms, so this traffic was moved to other stations, and the
Gare d'Orsay was used strictly for suburban routes. By the 1970's the station had
clearly become obsolete for its original purpose, and a tentative decision was reached
to tear it down and put up an ugly 1970's-model hotel in its place. But an idea was
hatched to repurpose the building as an art museum instead, and in 1977 this idea was
adopted, at the urging of President Valéry Giscard d'Estaing. Renovation work
commenced, and the Musée d'Orsay opened in December of 1986.
The Musée d'Orsay is home to artworks completed between 1848 and 1915, and houses the
largest collection of French impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces in the
world. There are substantial representations of artists like Monet, Manet, Degas,
Renoir, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec and van Gogh. Other genres and artistic media of
the period are also on display. The museum has a strict no-photography rule, but
you can see images of most of its paintings by going to the
museum's web site
and selecting the "Collections" link. Public domain versions of many of their
artworks can also be found on the Internet. Here are a few of those, to give you an
idea of the sorts of paintings you can find at the Musée d'Orsay.
Le déjeuner sur l'herbe, Edouard Manet (1863)
The Lady with Fans, Edouard Manet (1873)
Le bassin d'Argenteuil, Claude Monet (ca. 1872)
Le bassin aux nymphéas, harmonie verte, Claude Monet (1899)
Danseuses bleues, Edgar Degas (1890)
Chemin montant dans les hautes herbes, Auguste Renoir (1875)
The Church in Auvers-sur-Oise, View from the Chevet, Vincent van Gogh (1890)
Self-Portrait, Vincent van Gogh (1889)
Arrangement in Grey and Black No. 1, James Abbott McNeil Whistler (1871)
Even though we couldn't photograph any of the paintings at the museum, we were able
to sneak a few general interior photos.
Bob in the Museum
Bob and Orangina at Museum Café
Museum Clock
Nella and Van Gogh Poster
Central Hall
Sculpture in Central Hall
Outside the museum there is a square with a number of bronze sculptures dating from the
same period. There is a set of allegorical continent-themed bronzes, originally produced
for the 1878 Exposition Universelle.
Allegorical Bronzes
South America, Aimé Millet (1877)
North America, Ernest Eugène Hiolle (1878)
Africa, Eugène Delaplanche (1878)
There are also some bronze animals.
Young Elephant Trapped, Emmanuel Fremiet (1878)
Rhinoceros, Alfred Jacquemart (1878)
Nella and Horse Harrow, Pierre Rouillard (1878)
By the time we'd finished with the Musée d'Orsay it was 7 PM. But the sun stays up late
in Paris in July, so we decided to walk across the river and explore the Champs-Elysées
with the daylight and energy we had remaining.