The Saint-Sulpice church, located a few blocks south of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés
church, is the second-largest church in Paris, after Notre-Dame. It was completed
in the 17th Century and was built on the site of a 13th-Century Romanesque church.
In the square in front of the church, the Place Saint-Sulpice, there is a large
fountain called the Fountain of the Four Bishops, which was designed by Joachim
Visconti and completed in 1848.
The Fountain of the Four Bishops
Statue of François Fénelon, Archbishop of Cambrai
The church has two mismatched towers at its front corners. Apparently there were
plans to make them match that never quite happened. During our visit there was a
crane and a fair amount of scaffolding, but they seemed to be there for maintenance
and restoration work.
North Tower
Façade from Below
Inside the church were the usual church things – a main altar, several side chapels
(some with tombs), a pulpit, stained glass and an organ. But the organ is anything
but usual, being one of the largest in the world. It was built in 1862 by Aristide
Cavaillé-Coll, partly with pieces from the previous organ. Nobody was playing it
during our visit, but it was still impressive to look at.
Main Altar
Holy Water Font (Gift from Republic of Venice)
Stained Glass
Pieta Statue
Tomb of Curé Languet de Gergy (d.1750)
Main Altar
Pulpit, Stained Glass and Altar
Pulpit
Chapel of the Virgin
Nella and Organ
Organ
Cross
One unusual feature in the church which we failed to notice at the time was
something called a gnomon, which at Saint-Sulpice is a long brass line embedded
in the floor in the transept, extending from a plaque near the south end to an
obelisk at the north end. This is mentioned in Dan Brown's book The da Vinci
Code, and is mistakenly said to have represented a Parisian "prime meridian"
(or "Rose Line") at one time. While the line does extend north-to-south and
there was such a thing as a Parisian meridian, it was located in the nearby
Paris Observatory. The line in Saint-Sulpice was used to measure certain
astronomical events, but this was initially because of the religious
significance of some of them. The gnomon worked (and continues to work) along
with a small hole in one of the stained glass windows, which projects a bright
spot of sunlight on the floor during the day. At "true noon" each day the spot
crosses the brass line, and throughout the year the spot travels north and south
along the line when observed at noon each day. When the spot is on the plaque,
the summer solstice is taking place, and when it's on the top of the obelisk
(necessary because there wasn't enough floor at the north end; they could've
marked a spot on the wall, but an obelisk was cooler), it's the time of the
winter solstice. Halfway along the line is a mark representing where the spot
will be at the vernal and autumnal equinoxes.
Oblivious to all of this, we walked around and took our pictures, and
eventually exited the church to go a few more blocks southward to our next
destination, the Luxembourg Gardens.