While Nella did some last-minute shopping in the Old Town area, I returned to our hotel on La
Rambla to drop off the chocolate we’d purchased, and then continued down La Rambla toward the
harbor. On the way I took a slight detour to check out a building called Palau Güell.
Palau Güell was built in the 1880’s for an industrialist named Eusebi Güell by Antoni Gaudí.
This would place the Palau’s construction before Gaudí’s works along the Passeig de Gràcia,
but after the beginning of his work on the Sagrada Família. The building was home to members
of the Güell family until 1945, when it was sold to the provincial government of Barcelona.
The inside of the house is filled with many of Gaudí’s strikingly original decorative
elements, at least according to the Internet. I wasn’t able to verify this personally, as the
building was undergoing restoration as I walked past it, and was not accessible to the public.
Apparently the work has since been finished, and information on visiting the house can be
found at its official website. But the building
wasn’t entirely covered with scaffolding, and I was able to see some interesting ironwork, as
well as some distinctive chimneys.
Wrought Iron with Creepy Bird
G is for Güell
Palace Sign
Grapes?
An Astro Pop?
I resumed my walk down La Rambla, eventually reaching its foot where it meets the harbor.
At this point, in the middle of the street, is the 197-foot-tall Columbus Monument, built
in 1888 as part of the Barcelona Universal Exposition, to commemorate the first voyage of
Christopher Columbus. Apparently King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella were in Barcelona when
Columbus reported to them following his return. The monument consists of an elaborate base
which is covered with symbols and renderings of people and events, atop which is a tall
Corinthian column that holds up a 24-foot-tall statue of Columbus pointing out to sea.
Columbus Monument
Monument Base
Monument Base
The Monument
There has been some question as to exactly what Columbus is pointing at, and none of the
literal answers are very satisfactory. It would make sense to point west, as this is where
the New World was, or maybe east, as this is where Columbus thought he was going. But
instead he seems to be pointing a bit east of due south, roughly in the direction of
Algeria. There isn’t any record of Columbus visiting Algeria, or of having any particular
interest in going there, so the simple answer to the question is probably that Columbus is
pointing "out to sea", an homage to his naval expertise. Or maybe someone just spun the
statue, and this is how it ended up.
There are some interesting old buildings in the vicinity of the monument, including a
Customs House and the Old Port Authority Building.
Old Port Authority Building (1907)
Old Port Authority Building and Waterfront
Customs House (1902) and Ferry
Torre Jaume I with Gondolas
After passing the Columbus Monument and the waterfront buildings, La Rambla continues
out into the water itself, along a walkway called Rambla de Mar, which connects La Rambla
with the Maremàgnum shopping mall. The Rambla de Mar appears to block egress to a
substantial population of personal watercraft which are parked in Port Vell, but there is
a segment of the walkway that can swing open to allow boats to get out.
At the end of the Rambla de Mar is the Maremàgnum mall, with an open area in front of it
where people can sit and watch the world go by.
Rambla de Mar
Trapped Boats
Ne'er-Do-Wells
Floating Sculpture
I visited the mall and didn’t see anything particularly striking about it. It seemed to
be a pretty basic mall, with mostly typical shops and some restaurants, but no food court.
There are an IMAX theater and a large aquarium nearby, but I didn’t really have time for
either.
I retraced my steps to La Rambla, but this time took a detour to a square called Plaça
Reial, located almost directly on the other side of La Rambla from the Palau Güell. The
Plaça Reial was built in the 1850’s and has lampposts that were designed later by Gaudí.
It is very popular at night, as there are several restaurants and nightclubs located there.
I was there during the day. There were some people there, but it wasn’t especially crowded.
It was a pleasant place to spend a few minutes.
The Plaça
Fountain
Gaudí-Designed Lamppost
After my few minutes I continued up La Rambla to the hotel. Nella arrived a few minutes later,
carrying some new acquisitions. We rested awhile and then started packing. We wouldn’t have
much time for packing the following morning, as we had an early flight. We took a break for
dinner at a Chinese restaurant just off La Rambla, did some more packing, watched some TV and
made an early night of it. The next day promised to be eventful, as we would be switching back
to our usual continent. But it seemed as if it would be simple enough, with a short layover in
London, followed by a non-stop back to LAX. What could possibly go wrong?