Not quite as high on the Vomero hill as the Castel Sant'Elmo is the
Certosa di San Martino, a Carthusian monastery that was originally
established in the 14th Century. The Carthusians, also known as the Order of
St. Bruno, have been a monastic order since the 11th Century. Their practice
has been for members to lead a hermitlike existence, living in isolated
quarters and only infrequently encountering other people, even within the
order. Though the order is not as popular as it once was, there are still a
number of Carthusian monasteries (known as certosi, or charterhouses)
scattered around the world. The Certosa di San Martino is a monastery no
longer, having been deconsecrated by the French in 1806. It has been open to
the public as a museum since 1866.
The monastery is extensive, with a church and two cloisters, one of which is
very large. Like the castle, it was not hard to find, as there was a nice
view of it from the Castel Sant'Elmo wall, where we'd just been.
Monastery from Castel Sant'Elmo
Monastery Church
On exiting the castle grounds the same way we'd entered, we just turned right
and found the monastery entrance at the end of the road. They accepted the
ArteCard too, but we did have to pay the half price.
Via Tito Angelini Toward Monastery
Monastery Entrance and Soccer Practice
Just across a courtyard from the entrance is the monastery's church. The church
has undergone changes through the centuries and now has extensive baroque
decorations, as well as nicely decorated subsidiary rooms connected to it.
Entrance to Church
Bob Near Main Altar
Main Altar
Main Altar and Chapels
Ceiling
Philip and Front Door
Statue
Side Chapels
Subsidiary Rooms
Philip in Subsidiary Room
Decoration in Subsidiary Room
Pillow Thing
Water Dispenser
Wood Decoration
The monastery's cloisters are also embellished, though the elements have taken a toll
and they could use some fixing up. The larger cloister is the site of the monks'
graveyard, which is located in a corner and is surrounded by a balustrade topped by
marble skulls, presumably to graphically designate the area's purpose, and possibly
to remind the monks of their mortality.
The Clerks' Cloister
Main Cloister and Graveyard Balustrade
Skull on Balustrade
Main Cloister
Connie and Central Cistern
Statue
Nella and Bob on Walkway
Creepy Sculpture
In its capacity as a museum, the Certosa also displays Neapolitan artworks and historical
pieces, some of which (like carriages and boats) are very sizable.
Artworks
Decorated Room
Carriage
Bob and Boat
Stern of Boat
Guns
There is also an impressive collection of elaborate nativity scene dioramas.
Nativity Scene
This completed our exploration of the Certosa. From here, we thought we'd go
back down to sea level to find what adventures awaited us there. But the going looked
pretty steep, so we looked for an easier way down...