On returning to Naples from Herculaneum, we found ourselves to be not quite out of
energy, so we decided to visit the
Capodimonte Museum.
The building housing the Capodimonte Museum was built starting in 1738 as a royal
palace for Charles of Bourbon. It was designed with the display of artworks in mind,
as Charles had an extensive collection (he had inherited the famous Farnese collection
of art and antiquities from his mother). Other works were acquired over the years,
and the collection on display now includes works by artists such as Titian, Raphael,
Botticelli, Bellini and El Greco.
The metro lines don't go anywhere near the Capodimonte, but the buses do. We'd
noticed a bus stop near the National Archeological Museum the previous day, so we
got off the metro at the Museo stop and walked over to the bus stop. As it
turns out, several different buses stop there, so we looked at the posted lists of
stops for the different numbered buses until we found one that was heading to the
Capodimonte and boarded the proper bus when it eventually showed up. We didn't have
to pay, as bus travel was included in our ArteCards. The bus travelled up the
Via Santa Teresa degli Scalzi for a mile or so, and we got off at the
Via Capodimonte. At this point we found ourselves at a "T" intersection, and
the signs were less than clear as to which way the museum was. As it turned out,
either direction would've worked, but we chose to go right, and were rewarded with
an entrance to the grounds a couple of hundred yards around the bend (with a
welcome gelato shop across the street from it).
Charles of Bourbon had also been fond of hunting, and there were extensive grounds
around the palace that he used for this purpose, grounds which are now a park.
Fortunately we entered at a point near the museum, so we walked over to it and
paid our admission (half price, thanks to ArteCard) and entered.
The Grounds
Walking on the Grounds
Approaching the Museum
Next to the Museum
We found the art collection to be as impressive as advertised, as were the royal
apartments that were open to the public (there were also some modern art pieces in
some of the royal apartments which didn't seem to fit with their surroundings, but
were undoubtedly placed there by people more expert than us). Our guide book indicated
that photography was against the rules in the museum, but we didn't see any signs to
this effect. But we didn't see anyone else taking pictures, so we didn't either.
Except for Nella, who was making extensive use of her Flip video camera. And
eventually I joined in, making use of the HD camcorder.
Connie and Bob in Museum (0:10)
Paintings (0:28)
The Fall of Simon Magus, Ludovico Carracci (1603-05)
Saint Cecilia in Ecstasy, Bernardo Cavallino (1645)
Venetian Paintings (0:17)
Odd Piece of Furniture (0:43)
Bourbon Porcelain Collection (0:31)
Porcelain Horsemen
Salottino in Porcelain (0:29)
Connie and Paintings (1:28)
After leaving the museum, we returned on the bus to the Archeological Museum stop, noting
some probably-common sights which struck us as interesting.
Madre del Buon Consiglio Church
Supermarket with Shower Curtain Entrance
Roadside Gas Station
Philip and Connie on Bus
From there we walked back to the hotel, and again everybody was pretty much on
empty. After resting a couple of hours, everyone but Philip went out in search
of dinner. We found a place around the corner called Carmela's which had
interesting and enjoyable food.
Nella with Zucchini
Connie with Pasta
Connie's Tiny Pasta
Bob with Gnocchi
Pleasantly full, we returned to the hotel to recharge for what would be our last
full day in Naples. Our first stop would be a castle on a hill that promised a
nice view of the city. This was the Castel Sant' Elmo.