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The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía is named for Spain’s Queen Sofía, the wife of present King Juan Carlos I, and has hosted 20th Century art since it opened with its permanent collection in 1992. The focus is mainly on Spanish art, which might seem limiting, but when the list of Spanish artists includes names like Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró, one can’t help but think of the Reina Sofía as a pretty serious museum.

Bob and Miró Painting
Bob and Painting, Joan Miró (1927)
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Nella with Indestructible Object
Nella with Indestructible Object, Man Ray (1957)
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Dance of the Ties
Dance of the Ties, Francisco Bores (1927)
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Pierrot Playing the Guitar
Pierrot Playing the Guitar, Salvador Dalí (1925)
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Bust and Palette
Bust and Palette, Pablo Picasso (1925)
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Street Festival
Street Festival, Maruja Mallo (1927)
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Pink Bells, Tattered Skies
Pink Bells, Tattered Skies, René Magritte (1930)
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Psychological Morphology
Psychological Morphology, Roberto Matta (1939)
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Guanche Cave
Guanche Cave, Óscar Domínguez (1935)
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The Invisible Man
The Invisible Man, Salvador Dalí (1929-32)
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Portrait of Joella
Portrait of Joella, Salvador Dalí and Man Ray (1933-34)
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The Endless Enigma
The Endless Enigma, Salvador Dalí (1938)
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Seated Woman Resting on Elbows
Seated Woman Resting on Elbows, Pablo Picasso (1939)
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Painting (Snail, Woman, Flower, Star)
Painting (Snail, Woman, Flower, Star), Joan Miró (1934)
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Woman in Garden
Woman in Garden, Pablo Picasso (1930-32)
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A World
A World, Ángeles Santos Torroella (1929)
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Girl at the Window
Girl at the Window, Salvador Dalí (1925)
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House with Palm Tree
House with Palm Tree, Joan Miró (1918)
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Les Oiseaux Morts
Les Oiseaux Morts (Dead Birds), Pablo Picasso (1912)
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Violin and Guitar
Violin and Guitar, Juan Gris (1913)
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Woman's Head (Fernande)
Woman's Head (Fernande), Pablo Picasso (1909)
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Cuerda de Presos
Cuerda de Presos (Line of Prisoners), Jose Maria Lopez Mezquita
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Woman with a Fan

Woman with a Fan, María Blanchard (1916)
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Undoubtedly the most well-known painting in the museum is Picasso’s Guernica, considered by many to be the most powerful anti-war statement ever committed to canvas and Picasso’s masterpiece. It’s based on an episode from the Spanish Civil War in which the strategically-located Basque town of Guernica was subjected to aerial bombing by the German Condor Legion in response to a request by the commander of the Spanish Nationalist forces, Francisco Franco. Occurring on April 26, 1937, this was an opportunity for the German forces to practice a tactic to which they would return in later years, that of bombing civilian populations into submission. In this case the tactic worked, with great destruction and loss of life. At the time Picasso heard about the attack, he was working on a mural for the Paris International Exposition, and the news caused him to immediately discard what he was doing and start over.

After the Exposition the painting travelled the world, eventually ending up in the care of the New York Museum of Modern Art at Picasso’s request. After Picasso’s death in 1973 and Franco’s in 1975, pressure arose to return the painting to Spain, and it finally went back in 1981. It was exhibited in the Prado Museum for a time (as requested in Picasso’s will) but was moved to the Reina Sofía when it opened its permanent collection in 1992, as the new museum was thematically more appropriate. Rules for photographing the painting are on the strange side – it’s fine to take photos of all the other works in the museum, but taking a picture of Guernica is forbidden. Unless you take the picture from the next room, through the doorway – they don’t seem to mind that. The problem is that people are likely to be in the way.


Guernica

Guernica, Pablo Picasso (1937), and People
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Study for Horse Head
Study for Horse Head (for "Guernica"), Pablo Picasso (1937)
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Studies for Guernica
Studies for "Guernica", Pablo Picasso (1937)
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Head of Crying Woman with Handkerchief

Head of Crying Woman with Handkerchief (III), Pablo Picasso (1937)
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The building housing the museum dates back to the 18th Century, when it was founded as a hospital by King Carlos III, replacing a 16th Century hospital founded by Philip II. Glass towers were added to its front in 1989.

Front of Museum
Front of Museum
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Glass Elevator Shaft
Glass Elevator Shaft
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From the Reina Sofía we got back on the Metro and returned to the hotel to rest up for the next day’s exertions, which were to include a visit to the Prado and whatever else would occur to us as being a good idea.

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